Sorry About the Gap

I have been a bit busy lately and neglecting my Blog, resulting in a backlog of things to say – if I can remember everything that has been happening.  The Stewardship Campaign at church has really kicked off now.  All four Roadshows have been completed and it is only one more week before the identity of our star attraction can be revealed for the ‘Event’ on the 9th June.  I have been away for a few days,   had a visitor to stay for a few days, and then an unexpected 24 hours in Glasgow and currently having a few hours break from the Jazz Festival (photographs in the next post).

The weather in Edinburgh was mostly dry, beautifully sunny but with a chilly north east wind.  If you can ignore the appalling mess of the never ending ‘tram works’ and the current rebuilding of Waverley station, Edinburgh is still a very beautiful place with a plethora of tourist attractions.  In just under 48 hours cousin A and I managed to cram in a considerable amount of site seeing, eating and talking.

Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace with its history of intrigue and murder was as exciting as ever, and the exhibition in the Queen’s Gallery was exquisite.

Holyrood Abbey

Having my own personal art expert with me in the form of cousin A was an extra treat.  She is very polite and never balked at any of my stupid questions.  Our first gallery was the recently reopened Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Queen Street.  I have always loved the outside of this building with its fine red sandstone slender turrets.  I think I was vaguely aware that it reminded me of somewhere else and last week when we walked into the entrance hall there was distinct deja vu – I was in the marble hall at Mount Stuart without its top storey of stained glass.  Not surprising really as they were both designed by the same architect, Sir Robert Rowand Anderson.

The newly set out exhibits were just perfect – the paintings and photographs beautifully lit and hung and the notes by each work of art had exactly the kind of information I like, both about content and context.  They also do a very nice lunch!

Robert Fergusson

The lovely little statue of the very young poet Robert Fergusson (1750 – 1774) hurrying under the cherry blossom at the Canongate Kirk was irresistible.  We walked the length of the Royal Mile, up Calton Hill, from St Andrew’s Square to Charlotte Square and never once into a shop except in the Palace and Galleries.  My memory was good enough to let us avoid Princes’ Street as much as possible – just too depressing for words.

Blue Sky Over Edinburgh

When we returned to Rothesay for the second half of this mini holiday the spring weather followed us.  Lots of walks in Bute.

From Canada Hill

If the skies are clear enough we always try to take visitors up to the top of Canada Hill as this vantage point affords some spectacular views.  The one above is looking north to Loch Striven and below is looking the other way over to Loch Ascog with Arran in the background.  Most of Canada Hill is Rothesay Golf Course but luckily no one was playing as we wandered around.

Looking towards Arran

Another day we walked up the road towards Glecknabae and were entranced by the abundance of bluebells.

Bluebells at Ettrick Bay

Our last walk of the week was up through the community forest to Balnakailly.  I found this tree both fascinating and sad at the same time.

Near Balnakailly

The Signboards Saga

At the Puffer Work Week (see last post) I didn’t just swan about taking photographs and playing scrabble – I had my annual task of turning the VIC 32 name boards back into a legible form.  In the last three Springs, with a fairly steady hand, I carefully painted over the existing lettering with a new coat of white and red paint.  In March 2011 it was clear that the 14 year old boards would only stand one more summer of Scottish weather as the wood was rotten and only held together with paint.

Sun, rain, wind and salt - not termites

The decision was taken last year that the boards would be replaced.  As I am certainly no sign writer this gave me time to do some advance preparation – I traced the letters and at home in the winter made a stencil to get the placing right.  I love very old gravestones where the last few letters of the incumbents name are done sideways or on the line below when the monumental sculptor ran out of space, but VIC 32 would be a laughing stock with such a disaster on her side.

Here's One I Made Earlier

The Engineer had made new boards and painted the black background so I had a lovely blank ‘canvas’ to work on.

I had a very nice ‘work station’ – wind and water tight, not too much rubbish around and a sturdy, steady bench to work at.  My fellow workers very kindly dropped by frequently throughout the day for a chat.

Adding the Red Paint

During most of the days the light was good enough for painting accurately but late in the afternoon I was very glad of my head torch – doesn’t help the wild woman hairstyle much.  As well as making the lovely new name boards (and many, many other things too numerous to mention) the Engineer one day baked us scones for morning tea break – much assurance of hand washing first!

Scrumptious

Very Nearly Finished

Five days later the job was done and it was with great satisfaction that the number 2 had its final line of red paint.

The Smile Says It All

My back had survived all the bending over – although I did fashion myself a very comfy seat from an old oil drum topped with a big bag of soft rags.  Because there had been no hold ups during the week I managed to complete my task a day early.  There is no slacking allowed on Puffer Work Party so I was allocated another little sign writing job.

I had no advance preparation for this small board which goes under the steps from the saloon to the deck to indicate where important emergency equipment is stored.  My last day was spent in the cabin of the Duke of Normandy, tied up alongside VIC 32 trying my hand at freehand writing – scarier and not such a good result.  I don’t think I will be  admitted to the Signwriters’ Guild anytime soon!  It was a good week doing something completely different from my usual range of activities, and, of course, almost anything beats dusting.

Way beyond my abilities

The Annual Painting Job

We are just back from a week at Crinan in the joyful company of VIC 32 and her cheery Friends.  It was the annual paint the puffer time, although painting was certainly not the only activity taking place.

Reflections in Crinan Basin

We had the first of the two good weeks of weather with only one day of rain and many days warm enough for coffee breaks outside.  As I type back in Rothesay there is a freezing north easterly wind peppered with vicious, sleety squalls – back to ‘normal’ spring.  The good weather at Crinan meant an emphasis on outside painting work but there were plenty other tasks being undertaken.

Lots of rust needing covered

Some welding jobs

As always on Puffer Work Week there was much chat and laughter intermingled with all the hard work.  The Friends are a multi talented bunch with joiners, electricians, engineers, painters and general DIYers in the group – the ladies work just as hard as the men.

Joiner No 2

As well as the painting, a lot of elbow grease is required in the mammoth cleaning task resulting from the boat having been in the boatyard over the winter.  Major replating work was done involving most of the cabins being removed during the process and then refitted later.

Washing the wheelhouse before getting out the Brasso

There were a few Spring visitors about in Crinan and, of course, they were always welcomed to tour Vic 32 in the hope that they would give a donation to the much depleted Puffer funds.  Other people were also getting on with their daily jobs.

Fishing boat at Crinan Harbour

Colin had an indoor task – to replace the anti slip covering on the steep stair from the saloon down to the cabins.  Very hard work chipping off the much deteriorated old covering.

When the new lino type covering was stuck in place it had to be clamped onto each step for 24 hours.  This made the journey up or down even more hazardous than usual (it is very steep).

It was quite frustrating for Colin at times as there was a steady flow of beavering away Friends needing to go up and down all day.  Although we each tend to do a specific job somethings need more muscle power when everyone lends a hand.  The heavy wooden dinghies need turned over so that both inside and outside can be varnished.

Muscle power

Team work was again employed when the galley stores were loaded.  We do get through quite a lot of food, not to mention the occasional bottle of beer or wine.

Not quite Tesco Direct

Through all the hard work there is always time to stop and chat …

…. or even just to smile.

Say 'cheese'

I spent the week doing my ‘sign writing’ job – a bit bigger task this year – I will leave that story for the next post.

After each day’s hard work we enjoyed a delicious meal thanks to Mary and Daphne, the cooks for the week.  Evenings were spent over hard fought games of scrabble, philosophising, or reading before the overnight snoring chorus got tuned up.

Bright colours in bright sunshine

A Site Seeing We Will Go

I’ve been a bit busy this week but here is part 2 of the Glasgow mini holiday.  On the first afternoon we crossed the city to view the People’s Palace and Winter garden with a short detour to the Doulton fountain.

The People's Palace

I always knew that the People’s Palace was there on Glasgow Green but I am ashamed to admit I had never visited before.  Coming straight from the all singing and dancing displays at the Transport Museum by contrast the People’s Palace could appear a wee bit dull and dated.  I loved it.  There is a definite warmth about the place, a feeling of ‘ownership’ by ordinary Glaswegians and it tipped me even more into a rollercoaster of memories and emotions.

Very close by is the Terracotta or Doulton Fountain with the amazing Templeton’s Carpet Factory Building behind.

Doulton Fountain

It is hard to believe that the extremely ornate Templeton’s building was in fact a carpet factory.  Why did they choose to pour money into those amazing tiles and dizzyingly twirly sandstone spires and curlicues?

Templeton's Carpet Factory Building

The Winter Garden attached to the People’s Palace is immaculately maintained and houses a very nice cafe for a sandwich lunch or coffee.

In the Winter Gardens

On day two we visited three amazing buildings within a few hundred yards of each other.  As a student these were buildings I barely glanced at as I ran puffing up the High Street trying not to be too late for lectures at the Royal Infirmary.

Glasgow Cathedral sits right by the hospital and I have childhood memories of being taken to the midnight Christmas Eve service to see nurses in their red capes processing down the grand central aisle  carrying lit candles.  No candles last week but light pouring in through the colourful stained glass windows.  For a mediaeval cathedral this has an important collection of modern stained glass (ie less than 150 years old).  My photographs were not very good but you can click to see my favourite – the Millenium Window which was only unveiled in June 1999.  (If the link doesn’t work try   www.glasgowcathedral.org.uk/category/the-building/stained-glass/  )

Next door in the Provand’s Lordship, the oldest house in Glasgow, there were some very fine and very old small coloured panes, the one below dated 1681.

Window in Provand's Lordship

Provand's Lordship

The third building in the trilogy was across the road – the very thought provoking St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art.  This was another museum and art gallery I could happily spend a week in.  I was hugely impressed by the thoughtful way the contrasts and similarities of about ten different religions were displayed.  The detailed information was clearly presented in a separate case for each religion and then there were displays where a particular topic eg coming of age, marriage or death, had artefacts and personal responses from a few of the major religions placed together.  On the upper floor there is a collection of what can be described as ‘religious art’ brought together from Glasgow’s huge municipal art collection.  Altogether a brilliant trio of sites for any tourist.  As well as the venerable old buildings of the Royal Infirmary looking down on the Cathedral, Provand’s Lordship and the St Mungo Museum they are also framed by the iconic skyline of Glasgow Necropolis – the fascinating burial grounds of the great and good of Victorian times.  That will need a visit on another day.

Glasgow Necropolis

Being Tourists

Although we nip up to Glasgow approximately once every two weeks there is always an agenda that allows no time to stand and stare.  To address this we have just had a mini holiday in that most exotic of destinations – Glasgow, which can even tick the box of being ‘overseas’ for us.  It was a bit of an indulgence to stay at the luxury Blythswood Square Hotel – very glamorous and so achingly trendy that it took me a whole day to learn how to ‘go’ the complicated taps, showers and multitude of light switches in our room.  The purpose of the trip was to visit a few of the many tourist attractions instead of galloping around the shops on a tight time schedule.

On the first morning we went down by the river, firstly to see the tall ship Glenlee.  We visited her quite a few years ago but they have made huge improvements to the displays and information boards since then.  The Glenlee is now moored alongside the iconic Riverside Museum (Scotland’s Museum of Transport and Travel).  This is a complete wow of a building, designed by Zaha Hadid and only opened last summer.

The Riverside Museum, Glasgow

I loved the overall shape and especially the zig zag roofline on both the back and front.  It is a huge hanger like building, to represent the shipbuilding sheds of yore with the roofline being variously interpreted as wave form or again the outline of building yards and cranes.

Is it a Wave?

This photograph was taken from on board the Glenlee, the masts of which can be seen reflected in the museum’s glass wall.  The inside of the building is just as awesome.  It is one huge space with the walls painted an unusual bright yellow colour which surprisingly works. There are so many exhibits crammed in that at first at ground level it felt a bit crowded and overwhelming but on reflection the colossal size of some vehicles were always going to make me feel very small.  Even a six feet wide passageway between the awesome 197 tonne Locomotive 3007 who spent her working days in South Africa, and a double deck bus made me feel I was ‘squeezing’ through a wee gap.

Trains and Trams and Cars

There has been much debate in the Glasgow press regarding ‘the wall of cars’ – many complaints that you cannot get close to this wonderful collection of vehicles to inspect them in detail, it is more art installation than museum etc etc.  My first thought was I am in a toy shop and all the Dinkie cars are on shelves out of the reach of prying fingers.  Eventually I decided I really rather liked it – I am not a motorhead and the floor area would need to be greatly increased to display the cars horizontally.

Art Installation or Museum Display?

The two photographs above were taken from a bridge which breaks up the cavernous space, crossing from side to side about halfway along the length of the building and suspended midway between floor and roof.  There was so much to see that we barely scraped the surface.  It would take many, many visits to do any sort of justice to the contents and information gathered here.  We visited on a grey early March morning but I can imagine this place will get unpleasantly busy at weekends and in summer (it is free).  Because everything (except the exhibits!) is brand new the very latest in museum information technology is employed.  Touch screens beside most displays allow you to delve ever more deeply into specific topics or simply just note the name, maker and date of the vehicle being viewed.  A large number of Glasgow’s renowned collection of model ships are now suspended from a sort of conveyor belt and glide majestically past the viewer at eye level and in slow motion.  There are two areas each arranged to depict a shopping street in a different era – appropriate vehicles are parked outside and visitors can wander in and out of the shops, pubs and businesses.  Just typing all this makes me want to go back – right now.

Looking Down River

At the moment the Riverside Museum looks to have been just dropped into a bleak post industrial landscape.  The immediate vicinity has been landscaped but the trees are still very immature, and the wider surroundings are acres of rubble strewn cleared land.  Presumably there are many redevelopment plans in place if we ever get out of recession.

PS Waverley Dwarfed by the Science Centre

This is looking across and upriver from the Museum. The square building is the BBC Scottish Headquarters and the PS Waverley looks tiny moored alongside the Science Centre.

Last Day in the Bustling Metropolis

Sunday was just as hot and sunny as the previous two days and because of predicted traffic snarl ups due to the rehearsal for the Olympic Cycling Road Race we opted to escape.  Boarding a river bus at the Embankment it was a pleasant 30 minute ride down the ‘mighty’ Thames to Greenwich.  I must admit I think the Thames looks just like any other muddy city river but it is lined by some of the most iconic buildings and skylines.

Tower Bridge

The latest London landmark, the ‘Shard’, is on the left in the photograph above and you can see HMS Belfast moored just through the central span of the bridge.

Greenwich was very busy but the Maritime Museum is so big that it never felt crowded.  We have been here before and I think it is one of the best museums I have visited.  For my taste they have got the displays and information signage spot on.  Unfortunately there were so many children about my family would not let me stay and play in the education rooms – a fantastic collection of buttons to press,machinery to operate, things to measure, and much more.

The Royal Barge

I can see why the Queen prefers the Hebridean Princess to this, even with its overwhelming goldness it didn’t look terribly comfy.  The big new wing built onto the old original Georgian house, although very modern, works  well beside the classical formal lines.  The large scale sea paintings are magnificent and this time I much enjoyed the refurbished stained glass from the old Baltic Exchange.

Then out into the fresh air again and a gentle stroll up the hill to the Royal Observatory.  It was very, very busy here with an enormous queue to be allowed to take photographs of your companions astride the Prime Meridien Line.  This is what Jane wanted to do but fortunately she agreed it was not really worth the wait so instead we enjoyed the excellent displays and explanations of the importance of accurate time keeping for navigation.

Harrison Clock

The intricately exquisite movements of this series of  clocks built by John Harrison in the mid 18th century are beautiful and fascinating as is the whole story of how accurate time keeping was essential in finding longitude.  When we started back down the path from the Observatory I was lucky enough to notice that the Meridien Line continued from the courtyard down over a wall – so Jane got her photograph after all.

One foot in the east and one in the west

It was then a very pleasant stroll back down the hill to board the river bus for the return journey back to central London.  We had a wonderful mini holiday in the big city but as always were glad to get back to our own wee town.

Looking from Greenwich Observatory

More Queues and More Bling

The second of our Big Smoke tourist trips was to the Tower of London, and like the Buckingham Palace visit it was a kaleidoscope of sunshine, crowds, history and even more bling.  Again the crowd management was slickly done and non threatening.  There was just so much to see that we had to be a bit selective on this occasion and plan to return another day.  The hand held guide was excellent although without earphones it had to be held up all the time like a telephone.  Both at the Palace and the Tower I loved the little snippets of appropriate and atmospheric music interspersed through the blocks of history and information.

As the Crown Jewels were the must see item we joined the great corralled snaking queue to do that immediately.  It wasn’t too arduous shuffling along in the sunshine watching all the thousands of other people.  Once inside the building, as we queued through each room, there was a film being projected on the wall and some extra information on the audio guide so the time passed quickly.  The line of people was moving all the time.

I was even more impressed when we reached the displays of crowns.  They were housed in a long perfectly lit glass case which had a slow moving travelator going down both sides of it.  This very cleverly meant that no one could stop and hog the best view but when you reached the end there was a raised viewing platform with all the information boards where it was possible to linger as long as you wanted and then you could jump back on the moving pavement and go round again – perfect.

A Beefeater

The Beefeaters were all of the more mature, rotund variety of gentlemen – I suspect more window dressing than front line security, but they did look jolly and very picturesque.  The diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires in the crowns were enormous especially when compared to the tiny examples in the Faberge Eggs I saw the day before, but both collections of jewels were awesome.

When we emerged, surfeited on glitter, we had a lovely encounter with one of the other iconic residents of the Tower – a beady eyed posing raven.  He was obviously very used to being photographed.

Even bigger than my crows

There was an even more exotic creature on the top floor of the building with the displays of armaments – an unexpected fiery, scaly dragon beautifully constructed from pistols, bits of guns, cannon barrels and assorted pieces of armour.  Personally I think this is the best use of weapons.  Not quite as cuddly as the Soup Dragon.

Armament Dragon

My feet were getting hot again and my brain was beginning to suffer from history overload so it was pleasant a couple of times to do as I was told by the ‘guide’ and find somewhere to sit down to listen to the next bit of the story.  The entrance charge at the Tower and at the Palace both seemed quite hefty at the outset but in fact ended feeling like a good deal – in terms of the quantity and quality of the experience.  It certainly was a lot better value for money than the £8 for a 50 minute gallop around Mountstuart (I love Mountstuart but the official tour is totally inadequate in time terms).

Decorated cannon

This cannon was very richly decorated but at least it had no added glitter.  I can’t imagine it has ever been fired in anger.  The iconic views continued even after we left the Tower grounds.

Tower Bridge

We didn’t spend all weekend trudging around famous places, sometimes we simply sat in the sunshine – preferably with coffee and cake.

Morning coffee or afternoon tea?

Coffee, Bling and Hot Feet

It was lovely and warm and sunny in London last weekend – and fortunately there was no rioting!  We had a few days being tourists and visiting Jane who proved to be a superb Tour Guide.  It was great just to put on the country bumpkin act and gawp at all the crowds of people and hustle and bustle while being safely led to the right tube / train / platform etc.

On the first day we had elected to visit Buckingham Palace and on arrival my heart sank at the sight of the milling crowds.  Once over the initial hurdle I was then very impressed by the slick and friendly crowd management – there were a lot of people there but it is a very big place.  The individual audio guides meant it was possible to move along at one’s (!) own pace.  Away back nearly 30 years ago I had the privilege of attending an Investiture Ceremony at the Palace when my aunt was awarded an O.B.E but I was delighted that the special exhibition at the moment is of Faberge artefacts with the added bonus of THE wedding dress

The State rooms are huge and the walls are literally littered with Old Masters.  It was slow moving getting to see the Faberge collection but very well worth the wait – my favourite was the Mosaic Easter Egg.  What can I say about Kate’s dress?  The lace is very beautiful and the detail exquisite but I was most struck by the tiny size (almost a Victorian 18 inch waist) and the technical structure of the train – I so wanted to see someone walking and turning in it.  In a separate case were the bride’s shoes, earrings and bouquet and there was a large seating area in front of enormous plasma screens showing a film of the wedding.  My feet were getting hot and there was still a lot more to see so we had a quick cup of coffee out in the back garden.

The Queen's back garden

The plastic sheeting is covering turf repairs – has someone been having a rave out there?  The coffee and cake were delicious but I had hoped for Meissen rather than paper cups.

Better than Starbucks

Suitably refreshed we enjoyed a stroll along one side of the garden and then back round to the Royal Mews to see the coaches.  I had expected this to be the least interesting part of the visit but seeing the detail and quality of the decoration on them up close was very good.

Can you get Radio Luxembourg?

Of course, the serious bling was reserved for the Gold Coach.  It is very large and heavy and the descriptions of driving this behemoth and getting it to stop in the right place were quite scary.  I particularly loved the four muscly tritons guarding the ‘cabin’ .  They have extremely luxuriant eyebrows.

Special 'no smell' horses

The third part of our tour was to the Queen’s Gallery to see a small selection of her art collection.  This was entitled ‘Dutch Landscapes’  – not my favourite genre but I was stunned into silence by one painting.  I think this was called The Shipyard Owner by Rembrandt and depicted an elderly gentleman and his wife – the characterful faces were luminous against the dark clothes and background.  I may have the wrong title and/or artist as I couldn’t find it on the internet.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Buckingham Palace and I will reciprocate the hospitality if Her Majesty is ever passing, and I never serve coffee in paper cups.

The sprinkles on my cappuccino

Orkney – Final Part

Fortunately the weather improved considerably on Tuesday which meant we could take the ferry to the island of Hoy for some distinctly different sightseeing.  The crossing took just over half an hour and we landed at Lyness.  There is an excellent museum dedicated to the naval presence here in the two World Wars.  It is housed in what was the pump room of the WW2 naval fuel base and is very well laid out with excellent signage and interpretation boards.  There was a huge amount of material explaining the base’s role in both world wars.  As always I was intrigued by the ‘people’ aspects and Colin more interested in the naval and machinery sides.  I particularly liked things like the nightdress made from parachute silk.

Lyness museum

One of the enormous fuel tanks has been converted into a display area for large vehicles etc eg a DUWK and Bofors gun.  There is also a seating area to view a very informative film.  It was awesome to be actually inside this giant fuel tank.

Naval War Cemetery on Hoy

The official War Grave Cemetery has no civilian burials and is in absolutely pristine condition.  I found it very moving to wander along a row of identical gravestones with perhaps up to 30 named and unnamed young men all from one ship – and the ages, mostly between 20 and 30.   In the far corner of the cemetery we came upon about 20 German burials and three headstones set at a different angle in a shrub border – one for a Parsee, one for a Musalman and the third had Arabic writing on it.

A very beautiful and moving place – but what a loss of life and hopes represented here.

Some of the area near the ferry pier at Lyness is now home to modern experimental alternative energy sources – in particular a huge Penguin wave energy device.

Wave energy device on the right

On our last full day on Orkney we drove to the very south of the island of South Ronaldsay crossing over the Churchill Barriers.  On a sunny June day it is sobering to remember why these connecting ‘roads’ were built.  On the night of 13th October 1939 a German U-boat slipped in to Scapa Flow and sunk HMS Royal Oak with the loss of over two thirds of her 1200 crew.  Within a few months work had begun to block off some of the openings into Scapa Flow to make a safer base for the Home Fleet.

Churchill Barrier and Block ship

Some of the rusting remains of the ships sunk deliberately to provide temporary obstructions during the war are still visible close by the Barriers.  A sad and eerie reminder that this connecting up of the islands is not just for the convenience of modern motorists.

Our final visit of the holiday was to the Tomb of the Eagles.  This is privately owned by the family of the farmer who discovered this Neolithic chambered cairn in 1958.  This organisation could not be further from the amateurish set up at Mine Howe and much more visitor friendly than any Historic Scotland sanitized site.  The staff were very friendly and informative.  There were two short presentations in different rooms in the museum.  Firstly a young man took us through the Neolithic artefacts, and for me the defining wow factor of being handed 5,000 year old tools and jewellery to hold and inspect closely.  As well as three of the hundreds of skulls which were carefully stored in this tomb there were the bones and talons of  a huge number of  white tailed eagles.

Still working after 5,000 years

A young lady then did a similar presentation  with  the late Bronze Age burnt mound and building before we set of on the mile long walk to the sites themselves.  This was unaccompanied and in itself a joy.  The weather was lovely and we walked on mown paths through fields of grass and meadow flowers out onto the cliff top past sea birds on sheer cliff faces.

I was surprised to find that the Tomb itself was unmanned.  The entrance is through a 4 metre long, 70 cm wide and 80 cm wide passage way.  A  little trolley, like a large skateboard was provided to lie on and pull yourself along by means of a rope strung along the roof of the tunnel.  It was difficult to keep the trolley moving in a straight line so I opted for tying some rubber knee protectors around my legs and crawling  through the tunnel instead.

When through the passage way the tomb opened out into quite a sizable area with plenty of space to stand upright and with light from the protective roofing.  The tomb itself was a wee bit disappointing after having seen some of the contents earlier in the museum but getting in and out added to the fun.

At the Tomb of the Eagles

We have had a very enjoyable holiday – lots to see and do but perhaps not enough time to enjoy many long walks.  We will just need to go back again someday.

St Margaret's Hope, South Ronaldsay

The ferry to the mainland

Orkney – Part 2

We had another beautiful cliff top walk up to Marwick Head where it was very pleasant sitting in the sunshine watching the guillemots and kittiwakes in their high rise accommodation on the cliffs below us.

Marwick Head cliffs

We also walked around the Kitchener Memorial, a huge tower erected by the people of Orkney to commemorate the loss of Lord Kitchener and all but 12 of the crew of HMS Hampshire in 1916.

Kitchener Memorial

Sadly the display board down by the start of the cliff path has been horribly defaced with nasty racist graffiti but I was very touched by a small wooden cross which had been carefully jammed into the frame.

An individual remembered nearly 100 years later

We made a short return visit to the amazing neolithic village at Skara Brae and to Skaill House.  It is not hard for me to imagine those families about 5,000 years ago living in their desirable wee houses complete with box beds and built in cupboards.

All 'mod cons' - for the times

The main reason for our visit was to have a proper look at nearby Skaill House.  Last year it was too crowded and rushed to be able to take anything in.  Originally built for Bishop George Graham about 1620 it is now a lovely little time warp example of a laird’s house over many generations.  The present owner’s  grandfather had the distinction of being the incumbent in 1850 when particularly high tides and a storm revealed Skara Brae.

We skipped the amazing Ring of Brodgar as we spent some time there last year and moved on for a better look at the Standing Stones of Stenness.  They may be less in number than at Brodgar but on a sunny early evening with only the birds for company it was just as awesome.

Stenness Standing Stones

Big stones in a big sky

On Sunday we went to church in Stromness.  The service was very nice but there was a surprisingly unwelcome atmosphere – we were totally ignored by our fellow worshippers.  There were some heavy showers today but fortunately we managed to avoid them.  In the afternoon we drove across past Kirkwall and up to the Broch of Gurness.

A view like mine

This was another fascinating site – the ruins of a domestic broch dating from about the 1^st century BC or earlier with occupation continuing into early Viking times until about 9^th century AD.  Many Pictish artefacts have been found and indeed the Pictish house which was built on top of the ruins of the broch have been moved to the side and reconstructed there.  The signage and meticulous maintenance was up to Historic Scotland’s usual high standards.  Beautiful views across Eynhallow Sound to the island of Rousay.

Broch of Gurness

Monday was almost a total washout – we spent some time in Kirkwall Library Heritage Centre and only made one sightseeing stop.

This was Mine Howe which didn’t easily fit into any of the categories of ancient sites we had already viewed.  For a start this is not owned by Historic Scotland but by a private individual and therefore not subsidised by the tax payer.  The visitor centre was a Portacabin in a field manned by a  friendly teenage girl with bitten down scarlet painted nails who explained we could view the display boards around the room before committing to the £4 entry charge.  We decided to go for it just because of the sheer wackiness of the place.

The girl then furnished us with a torch and a hard hat each and directed us to a little shed perched on top of a nearby grass covered mound just visible through the torrential downpour.  Inside the open sided shed a metal staircase led straight down into the centre of the hillock and this was surreally lit by a rope of fairy lights twisted around the handrail.  We then continued down the famous 29 steps of this claustrophobic little stairwell to nowhere.  All the top archeologists and experts, including TV’s Time Team squad have studied this place and no one can come up with a purpose for it.  Really odd because it just comes to a stop at the bottom of the stairs.  Altogether a strange experience.

To be continued – only one more episode to go.